Deadline’s Jen Yamato and contributor Ross Lincoln provided on-scene coverage tonight.
Anna Karenina‘s Jacqueline Durran and Mirror Mirror‘s Eiko Ishioka vaulted to frontrunner status for this year’s Best Costume Design Oscar by taking home top awards tonight at the 15th annual Costume Designers Guild Awards. Durran won the Outstanding Period Film Award, while Ishioka posthumously scored the Outstanding Fantasy Film nod. “One can only do great work if one is given a great opportunity”, Durran said in accepting her honor. Skyfall‘s Jany Temime took the third film award of the night for Outstanding Contemporary Film.
Other Oscar nominees on the shortlists tonight in the Beverly Hilton-set ceremony included Les Miserables‘ Paco Delgado, who in a pre-ceremony shout-out lamented Argo‘s Jacqueline West missing out on an Academy Award nom — “Argo had a vision of the ’70s I thought was so real, it’s a pity they didn’t get an acknowledgement”; Lincoln‘s Joanna Johnston; and Colleen Atwood for Snow White And The Huntsman.
On the TV side, Downton Abbey‘s Caroline McCall won the Period/Fantasy TV Series category, Lou Eyrich of American Horror Story: Asylum took the Television Movie or Miniseries trophy and Smash costume designer Molly Maginnis won for Contemporary TV Series. The night also featured Career Achievement Awards for Eduardo Castro (TV) and Judianna Makovsky (film), who also took the Commercial Costume Design award in addition to being nominated in the Fantasy category for The Hunger Games.
In other awards, Saturday Night Live boss Lorne Michaels received the guild’s Distinguished Collaborator Award after being introduced by SNL alums Steve Martin, Amy Poehler and Maya Rudolph. Martin was spot-on in his stand-up intro, saying among other things about the CDG plaque he received: “Many men want a trophy wife, but no one wants a plaque wife.” Anne Hathaway was presented with the Lacoste Spotlight Award by her Les Miserables co-star Russell Crowe. “Some of the fondest memories of my life are… not the fittings, no!… but the results of the fittings,” she said. “Being pinned and needled, but you look down and you believe what you’re wearing, and when you look up, you are gone, and the character can come alive.”
Among presenters that also included Mirror Mirror star Lily Collins accepting Ishioka’s award, Shirley MacLaine delivered a hilarious series of zings in presenting the Period Film award won by Durran. “I purposefully want to be here to tonight to pay tribute to…all of you people who mess with your bodies and force you to stand still for hours, and also to balance my karma with you. I know I’ve been causing you a lot of grief for 65 fucking years,” she said to laughter. She then went on: “I’m here to present the… the…” — at this point pretending to forget — “the Period award! Sorry, its been so long”.
The Costume Designers Guild gathered to honor the best in the craft from 2012, with Joel McHale hosting. He kicked off the show scoring with several quips including “The first person who uses their centerpiece to make a blouse wins a second dessert.” He claimed to be the best possible host because he’s something of a clothes horse. “I wear the hides of only the youngest, most supple foals cut down in their prime.” Addressing Michaels directly, he said, “Lorne, when you look around this room you must be flattered that all these people came here to kiss your ass.”
Also from McHale, owing to the big Les Mis contingent between Period Film nominee Paco Delgado, Hathaway and Crowe. “I didn’t see Les Mis, but I hear Russell Crowe was amazing as Captain Crunch.”
Related: Costume Designers Unveil Nominees
15TH ANNUAL COSTUME DESIGNERS GUILD AWARDS
Temime gave a charming, French-accented speech in which she talked about how much she loves working on Bond films. She thanked Daniel (“Danielle”) Craig personally — and called him “the most beautiful Zero Zero Seven.”
EXCELLENCE IN PERIOD FILM
Jacqueline Durran, Anna Karenina
Durran is also Oscar-nominated for her work on the 19th century Russia-set Anna Karenina. She has earned Oscar nods for all three of her films for director Joe Wright (Pride & Prejudice, Atonement, and Anna Karenina).
EXCELLENCE IN FANTASY FILM
Eiko Ishioka, Mirror Mirror
Presenter Collins wore a dress sporting a bow in honor of the iconic designer, who died of cancer in January 2012. For Mirror Mirror, Ishioka outfitted the actress in a wedding dress adorned with a bow “because she wanted to give Snow White as a present to the audience at the end of the movie”, according to Collins. “Eiko was one of the most warm-hearted, elegant women I’ve ever had the pleasure of meeting”, she said before opening the envelope. After she read Ishioka’s name, an elated Collins accepted on her behalf.
OUTSTANDING CONTEMPORARY TELEVISION SERIES
Molly Maginnis, Smash
Magginis was unable to accept her award, but in a nice riff on the fact he’d run out of time during his own speech moments earlier, Career Achievement In TV recipient Castro came back out again to a titter from the crowd to read Magginis’ thank-you letter. He ended by thanking his own partner of 24 years, Hans, whom he’d left out in his remarks. The crowd laughed uproariously.
OUTSTANDING PERIOD/FANTASY TELEVISION SERIES
Caroline McCall, Downton Abbey
Said McCall: “One of the great things about working [in costume design] is working with hugely talented creative makers and milliners, so thank you to them as well”.
OUTSTANDING MADE FOR TELEVISION MOVIE OR MINISERIES
Lou Eyrich, American Horror Story: Asylum, Season 2
Eyrich didn’t prepare a speech “because I didn’t think I’d be standing here”, she said at the podium. She thanked her collaborators on the FX series. “It was a tough show”, she said, exhaling.
EXCELLENCE IN COMMERCIAL COSTUME DESIGN
Judianna Makovsky, Captain Morgan Black
The Captain Morgan job marked her first commercial since dressing Get Smart‘s Don Adams for Diet Pepsi 30 years ago. “I got a call: ‘Would you like to go to Budapest and do it in 7 days?’ Why not?” she says. Todd Field (Little Children, In The Bedroom) directed the spot, which was shot on film. Makovsky’s advice to fellow costume designers doing commercials? “Do summer stock — it’s the same process. You have no time, no money, and no help, but you get very creative!” Her next gig is 2014′s Captain America: The Winter Soldier.
Lacoste Spotlight Award
Wearing a metallic cutaway sheath she joked was made from disco balls, Hathaway found Les Miserables costume designer Delgado in the ballroom and thanked him from the podium for not listening to her during one set battle over the “defiant pink” her character Fantine sports in the film. The color choice led to a few sleepless nights for Hathaway, but she came to realize it condensed in a glance the emotion “it took 50 pages for Victor Hugo to explain”. She also thanked Delgado for providing her with “vegan period footwear” on the shoot.
Distinguished Collaborator Award
“I so wanted to be here to honor my friend, Lorne Michaels”, Martin began, “but unfortunately I’m currently traveling through Europe, so I’m not here”. He then went backstage…and returned seconds later. “I’ve just been informed that I am here”. He then proceeded to claim he’s prepared a video in tribute. He did — on his phone.
Michaels enjoyed a mini-roast from show alums Martin, Amy Poehler, and Maya Rudolph but quickly turned his thank-yous to the show’s longtime costume designer Tom Broecker. “Comedy writers dress for work like they did in college… They look like background workers at Home Depot”, Michaels said. Broecker has been with SNL since 1994 and also plays costume designer Lee on 30 Rock. Michaels credited him with keeping the show looking fresh on the most demanding schedule in TV: “That’s our life. It takes a certain kind of person to love it and want to do it”.
Career Achievement in Film
“I completely forgot I put Tom Hanks into a pair of children’s underpants,” Makovsky said as she took the stage to accept her award (among her credits is Hanks’ 1988 film Big). She thanked everyone who ever hired her “but didn’t fire me. Everyone who worked with me and not for me”. She thanked her crew and her mother, who exposed her to costumes at a young age and later told her she couldn’t imagine her daughter doing anyone else. She also thanked costume desginer Jane Greenwood, an early mentor. She paid particular tribute to her friend and The Hunger Games director Gary Ross, who presented the award to her. She noted that “a film is really about story, and sometimes costumes take a backseat. You have to remember that your job is to tell a story”.
Career Achievement In Television
The costume designer whose credits include the iconic series Miami Vice as well as the current fantasy drama Once Upon A Time joked that his first thought after learning he’d won the honor was, “(Sigh), am I really that old! Yes, yes I am.” The veteran received a warm introduction by Once Upon A Time stars Ginnifer Goodwin and Josh Dallas, who took the night off of filming on the ABC series to attend. His career highlights screened in a montage set to Christina Aguilera’s “Make The World Move” and included Ugly Betty, Their Eyes Were Watching God, Miami Vice, Elvis, and Bird On A Wire.
Onstage, Castro recounted his worst professional screw-ups (sending 32 military dress uniforms to a tropical island shoot; ordering $100-per-foot fabric) and early career memories of meeting luminaries like Bob Mackie. “Their dedication to the craft was very inspiring”, he said. Castro, who started out cleaning the mud off boots from Apocalypse Now, has won four Costume Designer Guild awards to date and earned a 2012 Emmy nomination for Once Upon A Time.
He also shared what he says was his earliest lesson in costuming: His mother said to him, “You know this lady Rose Weiss makes beautiful clothes” (she designed The Lawrence Welk Show, Castro clarified). “I started paying attention to who made clothes. It was all thanks to my mother.”
He became the night’s first CDG honoree to be played off the podium.
Distinguished Service Award
David Le Vey
Guild President Mary Rose and Silver Linings Playbook nominee Bridges presented David Le Vey his award. Though his speech is heartfelt, it became unintentionally hilarious when Rose seemed to go off teleprompter for a moment, flubbing her lines and causing chuckles and guffaws as a confused Bridges looked on, trying not to laugh.